From the Rolls-Royce experimental archive: a quarter of a million communications from Rolls-Royce, 1906 to 1960's. Documents from the Sir Henry Royce Memorial Foundation (SHRMF).
Instructions for the dismantling and re-assembly of a fully floating axle.
| Identifier | ExFiles\Box 27a\2\ Scan225 | |
| Date | 18th July 1933 guessed | |
| FORD BULLETIN Page 35 Lubricant for the wheel bearings is inserted through the hole in the hub shell which is normally closed by the plug M.{Mr Moon / Mr Moore} This hole registers with a hole in the spacer G as shown, to permit the lubricant to pass into the space between the two roller bearings. The spacer is positioned, and is prevented from turning by the plug N screwed into the hub shell, this plug being formed with a spigot end to engage with a second hole in the spacer as shown in Fig. 43. It will be noted that three of the securing holes in the flange formed on the end of the axle shaft are countersunk to receive a tapered collet which accurately positions the shaft and prevents any play between the securing studs and the holes in the shaft flange, after tightening the nuts, due to the driving stresses. This design of axle permits the axle shafts to be withdrawn without the necessity of jacking up the axle, or removing the wheels and hubs. Any side thrusts that may be imposed upon the rear wheels are taken by the two taper roller bearings E instead of by the inner ends of the two axle shafts abutting as in the previous type axles. Dismantling the Fully Floating Axle First remove the rear mudguards, and jack up the chassis. The rear axle is now easily removed from the chassis by disconnecting the speedometer drive, brake rods and anti-rattle rod supports, rear spring seat caps, and the torque tube at the rear universal joint. This will permit the axle and torque tube to be wheeled rearwards away from the chassis. Remove the rear wheels, and unscrew the eight nuts P round the flange attached to the end of the wheel hub, and remove the three split tapered collets that will be seen on three of the studs. The axle shafts may now be withdrawn from the differential bevel gears, and away from the axle housing. If the shafts appear difficult to remove they should be levered out until the splined end is clear of the differential bevel, when the shaft will slide out easily. This resistance to withdrawal is generally caused by the suction created by the close fitting splines in the differential bevel. Turn the bent over portion of the lock washer J away from the bearing adjusting nuts H, and remove the nuts and locking washer from the axle housing. Removal of the adjusting nuts will permit the hub and wheel bearing assembly to be drawn off the axle housing. The wheel bearings and bearing spacer may be dismantled from the hub shell by unscrewing the bolts R round the flange of the bearing retainer S, removing the retainer and the spacer locating plug N which will permit the bearings and spacer to be withdrawn. The two halves of the rear axle housing may now be unbolted, and the differential and driving gear removed as a unit. Re-Assembling the Fully Floating Axle Assemble the differential and driving gear unit to the axle housing, making sure that the driving gear thrust block T is in place and bolt the two halves of the axle housing together. Re-assemble the wheel bearings and bearing spacer into the hub shell, the smaller diameter bearing at the outside end of the hub, followed by the spacer G with the flange formed at one end facing the inside end of the hub shell, and the spacer locating hole registering with the locating plug hole in the hub shell; then replace the larger wheel bearing so that the taper of the two bearings face each other, and replace the spacer locating plug. When replacing the bearings they should be thoroughly greased with the correct grade of grease. The bearing retainer S may now be replaced and bolted securely to the hub shell. Do not omit to lock the securing bolts R by means of a wire passing through the hole in their heads. See that the oil retaining ring L is in place with its bevelled edge facing outwards, and slide the hub and wheel bearing assembly over the end of the axle housing; the end containing the larger bearing being placed on the housing first; replace the first adjusting nut and while turning the hub and brake drum assembly screw the adjusting nut down until the bearings begin to drag then slack back a minimum of one half turn; replace the lock washer J and the second adjusting nut. It is essential that the hub and brake drum assembly be kept turning while making this adjustment to prevent the possibility of local jamming of the rollers. Screw the second adjusting nut right down and test the bearings for adjustment. When correctly adjusted, there should be a slight amount of end play in the bearings which may be | ||